Zagoria and Thessaly - land of ancient civilization and divine beliefs.
a long time I thought a trip to Greece, but Greece for sunbathing or wandering from island to island, or to find the places most "in". But the ancient civilizations of Greece, the ancient beliefs divine. Zeus Hera, Aphrodite, Apollo .... I wanted to feel him, feel they can talk to them. 
So (14) June 2003, when you are about a journey through the Zagoria and Thessaly, the cradle of settlements since the Neolithic age ( 7000-3000 BC), we start, I and my companion, "camper". Boarding with a stopover in Igoumenitsa to Ancona, 15-hour crossing quiet formula 
"Camping on board" very very comfortable. At the landing, (15) morning, immediately take the main road to Ioannina.
Vrossina the village of an ancient structure draws our attention, this is an old and small church where they are celebrating an Orthodox rite. We came to the door a little fearful, but now an old man invites us to enter, the emotion is great, I had never seen an Orthodox rite. I'm greedy, I do not think two are enough ears to listen, and I would like four and four eyes I would also like to watch. When I leave, all perfumed with incense, I feel immersed in this reality, in Greece are "I am Greek, I would like the right here to climb Mount Olympus, I would like to speak with the gods.
Instead I have to settle for going to see an old humpbacked bridge over the river Thiam, which is a few steps from the church. On the opposite side of the shore by a generous fountain flowing fresh water. Now let's fill our bottles.
off again, next stop Ioannina, where, according to the guides, you should go to the tourist office to ask for EOS EOT- information and then supply maps of the trails. But alas, both are closed, though, checking the time, we are opening on time. Then leave again. Take the main road (E 90) for Kónitsa; height Kapual to turn right and after about twenty kilometers to arrive
Monodendri, true gem with cobbled streets and slate roofs. Yes, this is the Greece we wanted to see. Be able to touch the stones of thousands of years ago, walking on pebbles suggest that the ancient civilizations. "You can park in a small square before the town or along the gravel road just after the country." No one says anything. We opted for the second solution. The view was beautiful, the roadsides were full of flowers and the only sounds we heard were some bleating of goats who were returning from the pasture. Here we met Tovoli Federico, an Italian journalist who was there, asked to write an article on the Gorges Vikos, just where we would also visited us the next morning.
The (16) Wake up early, hearty breakfast and backpacker destination: The Monastery of Aghia Paraskevi and Vikos Gorge. The monastery remains overlooking the spectacular gorges, impressive cliffs, smoothed by water that in some places, even exceed one hundred meters, a marvel of nature a breathtaking spectacle. 
The path leads to the gorges and villages Papingo Macropapingo, but unfortunately, there are also the means of transport to go back. So, since we would be taken at bedtime Papingo, walk about halfway, then go back.
We move then in a camper. The road climbs up to the two villages of a "fifth" as a long snake. At first glance we thought that the camper is not going to make it, but then, getting closer, we realized that the slope was not as fierce as it looked from afar. Going up you have a wonderful view on the groove. The village of Papingo is right in front of the imposing cliff of Mount Gamila. We pass the village and soon the road begins to descend on the right, there is a small clearing made recently.
parked. and after a visit to the country, also with stone houses, slate roofs, chimneys, and many details of the giant plane trees, we go to sleep. On the morning of (17) spent visiting the incredible village Mikropapingo, which is about 2 km. by Papingo, so we decided to go on foot. Short stretch of asphalt, then descend on an old mule to the river, which crosses a small bridge and old.
The mule, many disasters, which rises steeply, leads straight to the country. This, nestling beneath the peaks of Mount Astraki still retains all the characteristics of the medieval town, narrow streets, all with the bottom of pebbles, all in stone houses and slate roofs all, back in time to the point that we did not amazed to see out of a doorway in the center, where absolute silence reigned,
a flock of goats, followed by a pastor and a small small dog.
Let these little gems that make Zagoria an unforgettable place to head for the Thessaly, Meteora to the next stop. The highway that leads from Ioannina to Kalambaka is very scenic and also very exposed in places, red rock, then, helps to highlight the chasms below. But in our mind we now have the Meteors, and that's where we focus, even if the thought of Mount Olympus never abandons us.
After about two hundred kilometers and after the last corner, there they are, so many pinnacles of rock full of holes as the "gruyere cheese." Huge Saxon worked from the elements that made them perfectly smooth. They look left, you'd think that falls from the sky. "Yeah, we can even afford to dream up to date, their origin remains a geological enigma." We go to sleep in "Camp Kastrakis ", which is not far away, so the morning of (18) we start on foot to visit the monasteries.
you all to visit, can not see them all in a day. So we decide to stop two days. The visit took us to a world unknown and not easily understood by us poor mortals. As we approach the pinnacles are becoming higher, it occurs to me that only one person to say the least bizarre may be planning to build a house, or monastery, whatever you want, above, where a spider has difficulties to climb.
But it is also true that heaven must be earned and in our humble opinion, these monks, at least the first, if they have won for sure. Although today they are almost all accessible by car, we made the choice to get there on foot, along the old paths that for centuries were violated by these remarkable brothers. The climb in the woods helped us feel closer to them. The visit then it's all emotion, beginning with the dressing. Women should wear long skirts and arms should be covered and men are not allowed shorts. The stairs connecting the port of entry are almost carved into the rock. Once there was not even that! The monks were hoisted with a winch "in a network hanging in the air for more than a hundred meters and the maintenance of these strings are made" when the Lord wanted that break. "
Inside the monasteries, are indescribable beauty of the walls completely covered with frescoes. Within Moni Megalou Meteorou (Great Meteora), the largest and most famous monasteries of Meteora, is a fresco that portrays with frightening realism the persecution of Christians by the Romans; the Monastery of Agiou Nikolasou Anapafsa there is a beautiful painting of Adam and gives its name to the animals, to Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou there are many frescoes with scenes of bloodshed. I realize, however, that my description does not do justice to the many beautiful scenes that cover the walls where gold stands everywhere. Here the objects, paintings and frescoes are treated in detail.
We share the day (19), we now expect the Aegean and this brings me now to think of Olympus and its gods. We stopped one night in the camp "Olympos", which remains on the sea. In the morning (20) we allow ourselves a nice walk on the deserted beach and the sun already blazing at eight in the morning, but the air is delightfully fresh.
conclude the morning with a visit to the Acropolis of Dion, a settlement of 900 BC. Today it is mostly submerged, but the visit is feasible. The site deserves a thorough examination because there are not only the classic remains of walls, but: public toilets, baths, mosaics. Each of these very special, never seen in other Acropolis. We also visit the Museum, located nearby. Demeter, Zeus, Apollo, Athena are there, life-size natural and look at us with eyes that seem alive. Awesome!
But now, finally, it's time to go to Mount Olympus. We move from Litohoro and take the road that will lead us to Prionia. This valley, for its historical and natural importance, is under the supervision of the forest, which takes into account all the resources and people who enter it. Drive about 18 km., Suddenly the road, very bumpy in the last section, it stops, forming a small open space that are full of cars. Then think of having the wrong road.
Prionia But where is the small village where all the guides speak? We look around and soon we discover to be in the right place, even if, however, take much imagination to define "small village" consisting of a place: a wooden hut, which the owners keep calling "restaurant" and not shelter, an enclosure that house some mules, used to transport the food to the shelters above and a fountain.
also space for parking is reduced to the point that if you arrive in the late morning you may not find the place. We, however, a corner for our campers we found it. Spend the night, lulled by the sound of some small waterfalls formed by a rich stream that falls from large cliffs. (21) Although there is a desire to leave at dawn, trying to do with peace, so we know it is a must to make a stop halfway through, so now we have to reach the refuge Spilios Agapitos ", which is more up to 1000 meters and spend the night there.
We start at nine, it immediately begins to rise, and so unabated for about three hours. You go up, the first in a dense forest, which thins with increasing altitude, leaving uncovered a number of points from which you can glimpse the tops peeled, some still covered with snow. Down below there are 40 degrees, the shelter, at 2000 m. About 15 °, the night you go down to 5-6 °.
The refuge is in a wonderful position looking east you see the valley below, to the west is the Mitikas, the highest peak of Mount Olympus .
Hence we see a top shaped like a hand with fingers spread, on top of the middle finger is living gods. Tomorrow we will go there. The shelter is clean and the managers are friendly. We sleep in a small room with 8 bunk beds. The desire to arrive quickly in the morning does not make us sleep, and so we get the opposite effect. Finally dawns. (22) Frenetic preparations, a good breakfast and go. The thousand vertical meters of yesterday did not leave any marks on my legs, I seem to have wings on his feet.
Trail, all on stones and rocks, is splendid, 900 yards separate us from the beginning of other "bad scale," they are called the last 150 meters separating it from the top of Mitikas. Most people, got to that point, come back. But we are determined to continue. Before our eyes, you open an enchanting and thrilling at the same time. We are on the "hand" and now it's up and down the "fingers".
The term 'hand and fingers "is appropriate because it is a tight top and indented with pitfalls that you do not see the end. If one fell, not even Zeus would be able to save it. Now we understand why many come back. We begin to descend. We can say that we are on top of the little finger, we must get on and off sull'anulare, descend to get on the average. The rocks move, there are few safe outlets; "bad scale" is an understatement. 
My partner has some uncertainties, but I'm determined to continue, so seeing my undisputed will, follow me. We move every step by studying, pondering each move very well, verifying the stability of each rock on which we rely. Not for a moment I thought I'd go back, we had absolutely reach Mitikas. Will and experience have helped us and who knows maybe Zeus has really reached out.
We Olympus. The emotion is strong, it takes me a lump in my throat. I know, there is a large company, but the story linked to this site, beliefs, myths, legends, they become very large and so there is natural to cry ... "Mitikooo" Eslami repeated throughout that day and also the next day.
The descent is equally challenging because you go over the "bad scale" backwards. Now we have 1950 of descent. We arrive at the camper a bit 'tired but happy. Now, our program includes a visit to the Pelion peninsula.
We move then to the coast and overnight in Camping Hellas ", a beautiful campsite on the banks of the Aegean. We park under giant trees that help us to keep in a state of bliss handed down to Olympus. (23) Hard awakening. If the olives have helped my soul to keep happy, so it was not for my legs are all sore and my knees do not bend my head, even the rise and fall of the campers become suffering.
So we decide to give us half a day at sea and given that the camp is equipped with a restaurant, working around the clock, we are going to sample the cuisine Greek. The chef invites us into the kitchen to choose fish, we do not believe our ears, we decide for prawns, bream and Greek salad. Within half an hour we are in the table and exquisitely cooked preparato.Prezzo modest. In the afternoon we set off for a quick visit to the peninsula. The road crosses a couple of villages where there are still structures of medieval origin, such as churches, fountains and ancient buildings, but the thing that impressed us most is the abundance of water. Streams down from all sides, some go directly to the street where they are guided to flow to the edges. It seems unreal, but with temperatures touching 40 degrees these fresh and clear waters that flow to the edge of the road suggest something magical.
leave the peninsula and head towards Lamia. Shortly before the village we stop at "Camp Interstation. Beautiful, idyllic location, near the sea, with green meadows.
(24) A part for Thermopylae, where a large statue depicting Leonid indicates the exact point where it was stopped the advance of the Persian army, marching to Thessaly where he was overpowered and the hero together with his three hundred Spartan soldiers (480 BC).
The epitaph states "or foreigner, announced in Sparta that we lie here, true to his orders." We continue to Delphi in the Mycenaean age where they worshiped the earth goddess Gea, and where it is believed to have originated from the oracle, a spokesman for Apollo, who spoke by the mouth of a priestess that every time you win a battle between two city-states, was literally covered in gold by the victors.
arrived at Delphi would like to visit the museum but unfortunately it is closed for restoration. We are looking for a new campsite. We decide to "Delphi Camping", literally hanging over a valley full of olive trees a few kilometers away from Delphi. Nice view, they charge too.
(25) We go immediately to Delphi. The entry into these cities is always exciting. Thousands of years separate us from them and yet you feel the human presence at that time lontanissimo.Questa feeling leads us to speak softly, trying not to make noise, as if we were afraid to wake up the host or to be discovered to his sudden return .
So we walk the Sacred Way to the Temple of Apollo, where some great columns are still standing, stately and imposing, intimidating. How many rituals, sacrifices and intrigues took place outside of these columns? We'll never know, but one thing is for sure, today we look at with great admiration. The theater is largely intact and the stadium is the best preserved in Greece (so they say the guides).
We leave the site and continue on foot towards Arahova towards the Sanctuary of Athena. A paved path leads to the source Castaglia, where the pilgrims had to immerse themselves in a purifying bath before consulting the oracle. In front there is the Sanctuary of Athena.
There is also the Tholos, a very impressive monument of the fourth century BC C. consists of 20 columns on a base with three steps. Its function is still unknown. We leave this place that has given us so many emotions to head toward Mount Parnassus. We climb up to a place where we decide to stop for lunch. The ascent on foot to the top is not even thinkable, the temperature is much too high, too high even to stay in that place, inside the camper. So let's start in the direction of Igoumenitsa, there are only two days at the end of our trip. Drive along the coast without great pretensions and we stop to sleep in the camp "Dounis Beach", is not recommended for the frame for the position.
(26) Take the road to Arta. Now the path is varied, with sea, mountains and lakes. Arta visit the thirteenth-century church of Panagia Parigoritisa and hump-backed bridge over the river Arahthos. Then allocate for "Preveza" along the way are the "Nicopolis", a monument of Augustus, built by Augustus in 31 BC, after winning the battle with Mark Antony and Cleopatra in the famous battle of "action." It 's a 'Extended huge but little has been uncovered. (27) We stop for the last night in a camp near the road, poor choice, too much noise. (28) Last Day, we take the road to Parga, but we leave the village of Mesopotamia NeKromantéio to follow directions, that we reach after about one kilometer. "This place is really charming, here we go near the river Acheron. According mythology the River Styx, Acheron was the old, through which the pilot of the dead, Charon, carrying the souls of the dead to the underworld. Without this trip could not enter the souls to Hades (the realm of the dead) and stand still in a state of suspension, the limbo. In ancient times at the rites were held Necromantéio equivalent to today's séances, it was thought that here was located the door of Hades, god of the underworld and then the place became home to an oracle of the dead and of a sanctuary dedicated to Hades and Persephone. The pilgrims went there carrying a gift offerings of milk, honey and blood of animals sacrificed in the hope of being able to communicate with the souls of the departed " (From the Lonely Planet guide).
The last stage in Parga typical village in the dedicate all uphill with a castle overlooking the sea, much touristicization.
But our hearts have been up there on Mount Olympus!
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